Holli Ugalde - Afternoon Picnic
May 25, 2012
•Le Cordon Bleu
•Le Cordon Bleu
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There is something undoubtedly romantic about an afternoon picnic. Maybe it’s the glow of the setting sun or the warm breeze while sips of iced Moroccan mint tea cool me from within. Whatever it is, May is the perfect time to dust off the picnic basket and head outdoors. Finding the perfect location for a picnic is key and for me, perfection is underneath a peach tree next to the pond on my farm.
It’s a well-known fact that a picnic is all about the food, but that doesn’t mean that it has to be difficult. It’s really quite the opposite. There are four basic categories to consider when planning an “al fresco” meal: beverage, munchables, the main dish and dessert.
The beverage can be as simple as a bottle of sparkling water or a vintage wine bottle filled with lavender scented lemonade. For my picnic, I chose a bottle of Vinho Verde that I had tucked away for such an occasion. Vinho Verde is an extremely young “green” wine that is absolutely perfect on a warm spring day.
A simple picnic doesn’t mean less food, it means less fuss to eat it. For my picnic, I prefer to have an assortment of finger foods to entertain my tongue. While listening to the birds sing, it’s easy to tear pieces from a French baguette, pop open a mason jar filled with homemade Caponata and spread on the love. Caponata is an amazing mixture of spiced eggplant, currants, caramelized onions, and pine nuts doused in balsamic vinegar and cocoa. The tantalization continues with aged Spanish manchego and freshly pickled cherry blossoms.
Chicken has long been considered the perfect picnic food in all of its various forms, from crispy fried to roasted and tucked in a sandwich. I agree, but I like mine in a slightly different form. A mixture of succulent roasted chicken, spring garlic, English peas and savory marjoram cooked in a delicate custard showcased in a short dough crust makes our picnic chicken just a bit better.
My favorite part of a meal by far is dessert. Saving the best for last is a big understatement when berries are as plump and ready for the picking -- or shall I say, ready for the devouring -- as they are here in California. Something so perfect as a juicy Olallieberry should be showcased beneath glass in a mason jar full of its crimson counterpart and sweet vanilla syrup to be poured over a thick slice of buttery pound cake.
Sure a picnic is just a meal taken outdoors, but it’s a chance to melt into the earth with a full belly. If you haven’t napped in the afternoon sun recently then I highly recommend packing a lunch and heading to the nearest grassy knoll.
About the Author
Chef Holli Ugalde is a graduate of Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts in Los Angeles and the winner of Hell’s Kitchen season seven. While attending culinary school, Chef Holli honed her knife skills and practiced techniques that have served her throughout her career.
Caponata
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large white onion, medium dice
2 tbsp currants
1 tbsp golden raisins
3 tbsp pine nuts
1 tbsp chili flakes
2 medium eggplants, 1/2 inch cubes (I prefer mine with the skin removed)
1 tsp unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tbsp Raw Sugar
1 tsp Saigon Cinnamon
1/4 cup San Marzano Tomatoes, pureed
2 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
4 sprigs, fresh Moroccan mint
In your largest sauté pan, 12 inch or so, heat the olive oil on medium-high until rippling. Add in the onions, currants, raisins, pine nuts and chili flakes and sauté for about 5 minutes or until the onions are tender. Don’t be afraid to play with the temperature if you feel the onions are cooking too quickly or not quickly enough.
Next, add in the diced eggplant, raw sugar, Saigon cinnamon, and cocoa powder. Continue cooking for another 5 minutes. Add in the pureed San Marzano tomatoes, thyme leaves the balsamic vinegar. Once mixture comes up to a boil turn the heat down to allow to simmer for another 5 minutes. Taste the caponata and season with salt and freshly cracked black pepper to suit your tastes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature before mixing in torn mint leaves.
Spoon into a mason jar for easy transportation to an al fresco paradise or serve in a bowl with toasted crostini.
Garnish with mint and chili flakes.
Pickled Cherry Blossoms
Makes about 1 cup
1-1/2 cups rice vinegar
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1-inch piece fresh ginger, smashed
1/4 tsp citric acid, available at some Asian markets
1/2 tsp grenadine syrup
8 ounces cherry blossoms
Combine all ingredients except the cherry blossoms in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Put the cherry blossoms in a heat-resistant container and pour the hot liquid over them. Stir gently to submerge the flowers completely in the liquid. Cool, cover tightly and keep in the refrigerator for at least three days before serving. The pickled blossoms will keep several weeks in the refrigerator.
Pound Cake
This recipe has been adapted from The Complete Robuchon
Serves 6
4 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature
3 large eggs, separated
Plus 1 yolk
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1-1/3 cup all purpose flour
1 tbsp baking powder
Preheat the oven to 370 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a 9-by-5 inch loaf pan with parchment paper. Put the egg whites in a bowl with one tablespoon sugar and begin to beat slowly with an electric mixer. As the mixture thickens, speed up the mixer. The whites are well whipped when the beaters leave a visible trace and the whites no longer stick to the sides of the bowl.
In another bowl, beat the softened butter and the remaining sugar (I like to add in a tablespoon of orange flower water to the butter for an extra layer of flavor). Beat for one minute. Add the egg yolks and then the flour and baking powder. Stir carefully with a spatula until all is evenly incorporated. Fold in one third of the whipped whites to lighten the batter and then gently fold in the rest of the whites. Pour the batter into the cake pan and bake for 35 minutes. If you added in orange flower water, the cake will need another three or four minutes in the oven.